tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59541635865435152372024-02-21T07:25:37.796-05:00Mahlzeit!Random thoughts on eating outMahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.comBlogger181125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-85326533667164155422019-06-28T19:02:00.001-04:002019-06-28T19:39:15.327-04:00Wiejskie JadłoI have long been a fan of Polish food, at least of the variety available in the United States. Perhaps I should specify “Chicago”, since I have a difficult time getting particularly excited about any of the Polish food I've had in Greenpoint (now <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2015/06/peter-pan-donuts.html" target="_blank">Peter Pan Donuts</a> – that's another story!). So when the <a href="https://www.nyiop.com/" target="_blank">New York International Opera Project</a> (NYIOP) engaged me to play for their auditions in Kraków, I was thrilled to finally have a good reason to go to Poland (and getting paid is one of the best reasons to go almost anywhere in my book) and try the cuisine at its source. It did not disappoint. Poland is a land of real food, in the same way that Spain is. <br />
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On the evening of my first full day in the country, I had the meal I had been dreaming about. Poznań is Poland's 5th -largest city, with a charming old market square (<i>stary rynek</i>). And just off that square is a gem of a restaurant called <b>Wiejskie Jadło</b>. Its name is Polish for “rural food”, and it lives up to every promise contained therein. <br />
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<i>Żurek</i> is one of my very favorite Polish creations, a tangy soup made with fermented rye. Add kielbasa, potato, and some hard-boiled egg (<i>żur z kiełbasą, ziemniakiem oraz jajkiem</i>) and you have... my kind of dish. Marjoram is the perfect herb to round out the flavor.<br />
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When I saw <i>golonka pieczona z sosem śliwkowym i zasmażaną kapustą</i> (roast pork hock with plum sauce and sautéed cabbage) on the menu, I knew I had to order it. It fulfilled every expectation, and then some. It's huge, so you'd best be hungry.<br />
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A complimentary glass of house-made cherry liqueur accompanies the check – another detail that reminded me of my beloved Spain.<br />
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The menu is large and varied, and I would suggest going with a group, if you can, and order one of their combinations so you can try the greatest number of dishes. Poland is, in general, a bargain for Westerners, and the prices here are eminently reasonable.<br />
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The restaurant itself is comfortable, with a pleasant rustic décor, and the multi-lingual waitstaff could not be more pleasant and accommodating.<br />
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<b>Wiejskie Jadło<br />
ul. Stary Rynek 77 <br />
Poznań 61-772 Poland<br />
+48 61 853 66 00</b><br />
<a href="https://wiejskie-jadlo.pl/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-68506760330120526242018-03-30T20:00:00.003-04:002018-03-30T20:21:04.165-04:00Restaurante La ChabolaIt has been quite some time, I realize, since my last post. Since then, I have endeavored to keep all information here as up-to-date as I can. Sadly, this has, for the most part, consisted of noting when places have closed. Of the places I have come across in the meantime, none have inspired me to marshal my intellectual energies sufficiently to actually write a post. That is, until yesterday.<br />
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I am, once again, in Asturias, in the north of Spain, and yesterday was my birthday, This coincided with <i>Santa Jueves</i> (Maundy Thursday of Holy Week, a much bigger deal in Catholic Spain than it is in the United States), so my close friend José Ángel had the day free to take me driving around the province. Naturally, I wanted to head to the mountains, but that was not a firm plan since there was supposed to be a lot of rain and snow. The weather surprised us both and was lovely (except at the highest altitudes, where there was rain). <br />
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Our route took us along the Senda del Oso, a marvelous hiking and biking path built on an old mining railway along the Trubia and Teverga rivers. Around lunchtime, we reached Samartín/San Martín de Teverga, a cute town full of tourists and day-trippers, all of whom, obviously, had the day off, too. This scene did not suit me at all, but we needed to come up with a plan fairly soon before every place stopped serving lunch. We left the car on the south edge of town, where I noticed (well, it was a hard to miss) a church and a rural hotel down the road a bit to the west and suggested we take a walk.<br />
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And just as I had already strongly suspected, past the church was a restaurant that appeared quite promising, an establishment called <b>Restaurante La Chabola</b>. <br />
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We entered, and were seated immediately. What followed exceeded my highest expectations... I'm glad to know that my instincts have not completely deserted me! The <i>menú especial</i> that day was €18 (since it was <i>festivo</i>, their <i>menú</i> is mostly likely cheaper on weekdays), which included the standard first course, second course, dessert and <i>bebida</i>. Upon consultation with our helpful and knowledgeable server, José Ángel and I, naturally, ordered in such a way as to maximize the number of dishes we could try. <br />
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For our <i>primeros</i>, we had a<i>rroz meloso con pitu y setas</i> (rice with chicken and wild mushrooms) and <i>pote asturiano</i>.<br />
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<i>Arroz meloso</i> is the Spanish equivalent of risotto. Like risotto, it's made with short grain (paella) rice, and although the cooking process is simplified, the result is almost identical: just creamy enough to hold the rice together, with each grain distinct and <i>en su punto</i>. The combination of chicken and wild mushrooms – clearly local ingredients – and a bit of saffron could hardly be improved upon, nor could the preparation. One could easily pay upwards of €20 for a dish of this quality alone at other restaurants in Asturias... it's almost astonishing to find it as part of a daily <i>menú</i>.<br />
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The <i>pote asturiano</i> was everything it should be. It's the <i>asturiano</i> answer to <i>caldo gallego</i>, and the ingredients are similar, yet completely <i>asturiano</i>: <i>berzas</i> (collard greens), potatoes, <i>fabes</i> (the large, white haricot beans that star in <i>fabada asturiana</i>), <i>morcilla</i> (blood sausage), <i>chorizo</i>, and <i>tocino</i> (pork belly). All the ingredients were top-quality, and the kitchen clearly knows what its doing. Possibly the best <i>pote</i> I've ever tried.<br />
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<i>Rollo de bonito</i> and <i>caldereta de borrego</i> were the <i>segundo platos</i>.<br />
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Normally, <i>rollo de bonito</i> consists of chopped bonito (a fish of the tuna and mackerel family), <i>jamón</i>, hard-boiled eggs and seasonings held together with bread crumbs (a la meatloaf), then rolled out and rolled up into a cylinder, fried, and sliced into rounds. As José Ángel quickly pointed out, that is not exactly what was served... it was more like an “<i>albondiga de bonito</i>” (a bonito “meatball”). Nonetheless, he was quite happy with it, and it was indeed delicious.<br />
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<i>Caldereta de borrego</i> (stewed lamb, though not particularly young lamb) reminded me a bit of the <i>cabrito</i> at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com.es/2012/06/regreso-pendones.html" target="_blank">Casa Juanín</a>, especially in its intensity of flavor. It was excellent, although I did find myself wishing I had heeded our server's recommendation of <i>codillo asado</i> (roasted pork hock)... I feel sure she had my best interests in mind and that it was spectacular. Next time.<br />
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<i>Postre</i> was <i>flan</i> (very good, though not quite up to the gold standard of <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com.es/2012/06/regreso-pendones.html" target="_blank">Isabel's</a>) and <i>arroz con leche</i>. Having lost most of any sweet tooth I may have had as I got older, I never expected the dessert to be my favorite dish of many great ones, but it was. This was one of the two greatest rice puddings I have ever tasted, the other one being at <a href="http://www.restaurantecasagerardo.es/" target="_blank">Casa Gerardo</a> in Prendes (the one I make at home following a <a href="http://www.restaurantecasagerardo.es/recetas/receta-arroz-con-leche/" target="_blank">recipe from Casa Gerardo</a> is a close third). It is clearly made old-style, reducing the milk with not-so-very-much rice for 2-3 hours, stirring it almost constantly. It was beautiful, causing me to practically well up – a reaction I am not accustomed to having when it comes to desserts. The browned bits are part of the <i>quemado</i> (burmed) sugar crust:<br />
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In fact, I like the food and the natural setting here almost as much as <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com.es/2010/07/casa-juanin.html" target="_blank">Casa Juanín</a> in Pendones, and there is really no higher praise than that.<br />
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<b>Restaurante La Chabola</b><br />
<b>La Plaza, 15</b><br />
<b>La Plaza 33111 Teverga, Spain </b><br />
<b>(+34) 985 76 41 36 </b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-63343663927289594192015-12-10T16:25:00.003-05:002015-12-10T16:31:57.585-05:00Hoagie Haven<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitxSI9UQZiGMwsN6RfVGs-ktDdfI7f8RM5mavuvTVN70dtprHa-DbP1tQSrXYZN30BKBfNyoVN0KLLAEuocdl_eLjOcfjpHH4yMiDZUppLOmbzTDNW4N8ei16O9hNeLXpADPgKURT7dMs/s1600/CIMG5155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitxSI9UQZiGMwsN6RfVGs-ktDdfI7f8RM5mavuvTVN70dtprHa-DbP1tQSrXYZN30BKBfNyoVN0KLLAEuocdl_eLjOcfjpHH4yMiDZUppLOmbzTDNW4N8ei16O9hNeLXpADPgKURT7dMs/s320/CIMG5155.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I cannot go to Princeton, it seems, without making a pilgrimage to <b>Hoagie Haven</b>, and last night was no exception. I was there in an official capacity - one of "my" singers is singing Mahler's <i>Das Lied von der Erde</i> with the Princeton University Orchestra tonight, and I was her "set of ears" out in the house for the dress rehearsal. But after the final <i>Abschied</i> was taken, it was hello, Hoagie Haven time!<br />
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This place never, ever disappoints. They crank out consistently wonderful sandwiches and hoagies of all sorts, and have been doing it for over 40 years. For me the star is the cheesesteak, and, predictably, my favorite is the bacon cheesesteak:<br />
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It differs from the classic Philly cheesesteak in a couple of respects - the slices of, um, "steak" are left intact on the grill, rather than being chopped up, and they use provolone instead of the <i>echt</i>-authentic Cheez Whiz. No matter... it's still one of the great sandwiches on the planet as far as I'm concerned. And their prices are eminently reasonable.<br />
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They also make the best breakfast sandwich I have eaten anywhere, in case you happen to be in the vicinity before noon: egg and sweet Italian sausage slices (grilled together) on a kaiser roll. It ain't no Egg McMuffin, that's for damn sure.<br />
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God, I hope these guys own the building they're in... As Princeton gets more and more twee (and EXPENSIVE) - as if that were even possible - businesses that cater to regular people are fast disappearing (the exact situation that has made Manhattan so unpleasant these days). It would be a tragedy if this place didn't have some protection against the kind of skyrocketing business rents that is killing NYC.<br />
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<b>Hoagie Haven<br />
242 Nassau St., Princeton, NJ 08542<br />
609-921-7723</b><br />
<a href="http://www.hoagiehaven.com/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-60410024498740915962015-09-01T00:17:00.000-04:002015-09-01T00:17:26.474-04:00Bhutanese Ema Datsi Until last week, I had never tried Bhutanese cuisine before. In fact, I had never even thought to look for it. But when Charles, author of the wonderful blog <a href="http://www.unitednationsoffood.com/" target="_blank">United Nations of Food</a>, mentioned <b>Bhutanese Ema Datsi</b> to me during a recent return trip of his to NYC, I knew immediately I had to try it. For me, it’s the most delightful new food find in many months.<br />
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It can take the food rather a long a time to emerge from the kitchen, but it’s worth the wait: everything is quite obviously freshly-prepared, and all flavors are clear and vibrant. The menu includes Indian, Tibetan, and Bhutanese specialties. Foregoing the Indian dishes for the time being, we began with <i>shabaklep</i>, Tibetan beef patties. These are first cousins to <i>momo</i> (also on the menu, naturally) – fried, good-sized flat dumplings. (More illustration of the perils of trying to take pictures of food in dimly-lit restaurants... sorry about that!)<br />
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The dough is a bit thick for many sensibilities, so be sure to eat them while they’re still warm – the dough can get a bit chewy when they cool down. The ground beef filling is subtly but nicely seasoned, which leads me to believe I will actually enjoy the <i>momo</i> here (I have yet to try any I actually like… they’re always too bland for me). They’re served with a side of a truly spicy red pepper sauce. Overall, delicious, and a great way to start.<br />
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<i>Ema datsi</i> (or <i>ema datshi</i>) is usually referred to as the Bhutanese national dish. I’ve certainly never had anything quite like before. Spicy green peppers are cooked with onion, garlic, and... wait for it... cheese. Not <i>paneer</i>-style cheese that is cut up and left intact in the dish, but melted cheese that forms a key element of the sauce. I have never seen cheese used this way in other Asian cuisines before. Traditionally, this dish is made with yak’s milk cheese, but since yak’s milk cheese is not imported to the U.S., feta is often substituted. I’m not quite sure what they use here... if I didn’t know better, I’d be tempted to guess Velveeta. Some may find the suggestion heresy – all I know is that it was utterly delicious. (Most dishes are served with your choice of rice. I highly recommend getting Bhutanese red rice, which can be seen in the background.)<br />
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The spiciness of this dish is considerable. It’s such a relief to go to a restaurant that is not afraid to serve spicy food to Westerners! <br />
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By contrast, the dish of <i>puta</i> buckwheat noodles (okay, you Spanish and Portuguese speakers, stop laughing!) was soothing and delightful: thick-ish buckwheat noodles (thicker, at least than Korean <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/04/gui-rock-korean-bbq.html" target="_blank"><i>naeng myun</i></a>) tossed with butter, scallion, and strips of omelet.<br />
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Meals here are served with a bowl of lovely, mild seaweed and milk soup:<br />
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There are several Bhutanese <i>thalis</i> on the menu. A <i>thali</i> is a meal consisting of a selection of small dishes, named for the round platter on which it is served (I will get a picture of it my next visit). Upon the recommendation of the extremely helpful waiter, we chose the <i>sekam thali</i>, which features as its centerpiece a dish of what the menu calls “dry pork” curry.<br />
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In this case, “dry pork” is cured pork belly, rather like an unsmoked, unsalted bacon. Sautéed with potato rounds in a curry sauce, it is hearty and satisfying. Also on the <i>thali</i> (on the left in the photo) is <i>kewa datsi</i>, Bhutanese potato cheese curry. This is as mild and soothing – yet rich enough to be interesting – as the <i>ema datsi</i> is bracing. Bhutanese red rice rounds out the <i>thali</i> triumvirate.<br />
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Prices are quite reasonable, and they’re open until 11 p.m. every day, 12 midnight on weekends.<br />
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<b>Bhutanese Ema Datsi<br />
67-21 Woodside Ave., Woodside 11377<br />
718-458-8588</b><br />
(7 train to 69th St., walk 2 blocks south on 69th, then turn right)<br />
<a href="http://www.bhutaneseemadatsi.com/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-30005342586631635952015-07-25T04:40:00.000-04:002015-07-26T00:04:36.599-04:00Taqueria con Servicio de Bar “La Cabaña”I’ve had tacos at quite a few places in Mexico – including some really great ones – but last night I was introduced to a place that outshines them all: <b>Taqueria con Servicio de Bar “La Cabaña”</b>. (Yes, that’s how the name is printed on the awning, and the only way one can find it listed on the internet.)<br />
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Located in the neighborhood called Azcapotzalco, it’s not exactly a place the casual tourist in Mexico City is likely to go, and I’d be hard pressed to recommend a special trip there. But damn, these tacos are good. Proof that all you need for great food is good ingredients and careful, competent preparation. <br />
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So, a quick slideshow tour showcasing the highlights... first up: <i>longaniza</i> and <i>lengua</i>.<br />
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<i>Longaniza</i> is a a type of sausage, crumbled and lightly fried. It was a deeply flavorful, pleasant surprise. Its companion in the photo is beef tongue: tender, moist, perfectly prepared. Both are simply stunning.<br />
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The obligatory <i>pastor</i>:<br />
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Every taco place in the city serves <i>pastor</i> (except the ones that specialize in other types), and, except for <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.mx/2015/06/el-hequito.html" target="_blank">El Hequito</a>, which is in a class by itself, this is surely among the very best. Beautifully marinated, spit-roasted pork with just enough char to make the texture interesting.<br />
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<i>Costilla</i>:<br />
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Another outstanding offering – slices of beef short ribs, utterly tender and delicious.<br />
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<i>Chuleta con queso</i>:<br />
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Marinated pork chop meat is lightly grilled, then cheese melted over it. Perfectly tender, and incredibly delicious. These may be the greatest tacos on the planet (with the <i>longaniza</i> and <i>lengua</i> here giving them a run for their money).<br />
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<i>Sesos</i>:<br />
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"I can smell your brains."</div>
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Considering the widespread fame of <i>tacos de sesos</i>, I felt I needed to try it in a place where it was likely to be excellent. And for brain tacos, it most likely <i>is</i> excellent. But I’ve never been much of a brains fan (at least when it comes to eating them), and I believe I can now safely cross them off my list of things to order again.<br />
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<i>Cecina</i>:<br />
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<i>Cecina</i> in Mexico is not the same as <i>cecina</i> in Spain, where it is beef that has been salted and air-dried, producing something akin to a beef equivalent of prosciutto (the deep, almost purple color is quite amazing). In Mexico, it is beef that has been salted and marinated, then cooked. In two nights worth of experience here, I’d have to say it’s a bit hit-or-miss. The first night, it was moist, tender perfection... the second night, a tad dry. Still, a taco well worth eating. (The picture is from the second night.)<br />
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The greens that accompany every taco order:<br />
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Lime wedges, cucumber slices, and <i>pápalo</i> (sometimes called “Bolivian coriander” – I can't make this stuff up...).<br />
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My friend Miguel loves the <i>flan</i> here and assures me it's some of the best in town. Before ordering it, you should know that, like <i>cecina</i>, <i>flan</i> in Mexico is rather different than <i>flan</i> in Spain. In Mexico, it's sweeter. Much sweeter. When I tasted it, I was fairly certain it must be made with sweetened condensed milk, and some recipes I found on the internet for Mexican <i>flan</i> confirm this. It's quite good... just far too sweet for me.<br />
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The prices are quite reasonable, and it’s open very late. It’s also locally quite popular: at midnight on a Friday night, there was not an empty table in the place.<br />
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<b>Taqueria con Servicio de Bar “La Cabaña”<br />
Eje 3 Nte (16 de Septiembre) 36 – Centro de Azcapotzalco, Azcapotzalco<br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México<br />
(+52) (55) 1742 1343</b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-5197563079864825282015-07-10T00:32:00.000-04:002018-01-23T15:11:46.414-05:00Mom's Dutch Kitchen (CLOSED)Do you remember Dutch Pantry? It was a chain of roadside restaurants that used to dot highways in Pennsylvania, Ohio, Florida, and other locales. They served Pennsylvania Dutch-inspired family fare, sold kitschy Pennsylvania Dutch-themed souvenirs, and were built to evoke Pennsylvania Dutch barns - complete with hex signs! The chain collapsed in the late '80's (there's a fascinating nostalgia website devoted to Dutch Pantry <a href="http://www.highwayhost.org/DutchPantry/dutchpantry1.htm" target="_blank">here</a>), but somehow a couple of Dutch Pantries managed to survive and continue to operate in Pennsylvania. I've eaten at the Clearfield one a couple of times on road trips in the past year. The former glory has faded a bit, but it's still one of the best roadside options you'll find on Pennsylvania's I-80.<br />
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That is, unless you're passing by Danville. If you are, a meal at <b>Mom's Dutch Kitchen</b> is obligatory. It is the real home-cooking counterpart of Dutch Pantry. AND you can get scrapple here (for you scrapple fans), which was never possible at Dutch Pantry.<br />
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No Pennsylvania farm breakfast would be complete without a nice slab of scrapple (and a bowl of sausage gravy):<br />
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The menu is large and varied, but for the real experience, stick to the homey items, like meatloaf, which is fantastic. It's accompanied by stuffing and real mashed potatoes, and yet another side dish of your choice. In the Dutch Pantry tradition, I got spiced apples - freshly made, and delicious. Soups are also great... their white bean with ham is stellar, and I got a bowl of chicken noodle soup that was more like a dish of grandma's chicken and noodles, moistened with a little broth. Delightful.<br />
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None of those photos turned out to be usable, unfortunately. I had better luck the evening I ordered country-fried steak. That's not something I would normally think of ordering outside of Texas (where it is, of course, called "chicken fried steak"), but when I read that they top it with sausage cream gravy here... well, how could I resist? I'm glad I didn't. (How do you make real mashed potatoes even better? Top them with sausage gravy, too!)<br />
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Dutch Pantry was famous for its apple fritters. When I spotted them on the menu at Mom's, I had to see how the compared. There is, in fact, no comparison whatsoever: Mom's Dutch Kitchen makes the greatest apple fritters I have ever had. Just light enough to be fluffy on the inside, and just crisp enough on the outside for the perfect texture contrast. Sprinkled with powdered sugar, they are one of the world's few perfect desserts as far as I'm concerned.<br />
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If that doesn't tempt you, they also have a great selection of Amish pies. If you've never tried shoo-fly pie, this just might be the place to do it. I did, and it's great.<br />
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Open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day, and located at the PA Rt. 54/I-80 interchange, Exit 224.<br />
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<b>Mom's Dutch Kitchen<br />
25 Sheraton Rd, Danville, PA 17821<br />
570-275-0840</b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-59390707970499327892015-07-03T03:03:00.000-04:002015-07-03T03:03:06.123-04:00La PolarMy second trip to Mexico was drawing to a close and I still hadn’t tried the famous <i>birria</i>. David and Guadalupe assured me that the place to go was <b>La Polar</b>... and all of Mexico City seems to agree with them.<br />
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It’s been around for over 75 years, and <i>birria</i> is pretty much all they do. It’s usually described as a “spicy stew”. I would take issue with the description “spicy”, but it is tasty. <br />
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Soon after ordering, the condiments arrive:<br />
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Limes, chopped onions, avocado, and a <i>mole</i>-like sauce of <i>chiles</i>, chocolate and other spices.<br />
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Then the stew arrives:<br />
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Essentially a large bowl of stewed mutton in a light broth seasoned (very lightly) with cumin, some onion, oregano, and bay leaf, it is both hearty and soothing. I have to admit, though, that I didn’t find it very exciting. Good, but I’m not eager to have it again. Perhaps it’s better in its home territory of Jalisco.<br />
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The place is huge, and has a real party atmosphere. Be ready for a non-stop barrage of strolling mariachi musicians. Open until 2 a.m. every day.<br />
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<b>La Polar<br />
c/Guillermo Prieto 129 – Col. San Rafael, Delegación Cuauhtémoc<br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México <br />
(+52) (55) 5546 5066 </b><br />
<a href="http://www.lapolar.com.mx/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-28645529180152000192015-06-25T02:03:00.002-04:002015-06-25T02:03:40.759-04:00Coox HanalAlong with Oaxacan food, probably my favorite regional Mexican cuisine is Yucatán-style food. It’s almost impossible to find in the U.S., and even in Mexico City, places to sample it don’t seem to be particularly numerous. Luckily, just around the corner from where we are rehearse is a Yucatán restaurant – probably the best know one in they city, <b>Coox Hanal</b>.<br />
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The somewhat unusual name, according to the back of the menu, means “let’s eat” in the Mayan language. And here, it’s a most excellent idea. We started with one of the best-known (for good reason) <i>yucateco</i> dishes, <i>panuchos de cochinita pibil</i>. Essentially small, open tacos with a layer of refried black beans, topped with shredded suckling pig <i>pibil</i> and slices of <i>cebolla morada</i> (marinated purple onion). <i>Pibil</i> is <i>the</i> Yucatán preparation – meat that has been marinated in citrus and braised in a sauce of annatto seeds (<i>achiote</i>), which gives it its almost startling orange-red color. These <i>panuchos</i> are wonderful, with just the right balance between slightly crispy fried tortilla, <i>frijoles</i>, and luscious pork.<br />
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Next were the <i>papadzules</i> (<i>en salsa de pepita con huevos</i>). <i>Papadzules</i> are more or less <i>enchiladas</i> – corn tortillas dipped in <i>salsa de pepita</i> (pumpkin seed sauce), filled with chopped hard-boiled eggs, then covered with more <i>salsa de pepita</i> and a bit of <i>chile habanero</i>-tomato sauce. Lovely – light in flavors and textures. A unique dish. <br />
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Even with this stellar preamble, the star of the meal – and <i>yucateco</i> cooking, as far as I’m concerned – is <i>chamorro pibil</i> (pork shank). One is served a whole shank on an oblong plate, bathed in plenty of the <i>pibil</i> braising sauce. Eat with corn tortillas, <i>cebolla morada</i>, and, for spice lovers like me, some the wonderful homemade <i>chile habanero</i> sauce on the table. Easily in my top 10 favorite dishes of all time.<br />
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I was in such ecstasy from what had come before that I forgot to get a photograph of the <i>pan de cazón con salsa de jitomate</i>. It’s not a particularly distinctive-looking dish, in fact – two corn tortillas filled with chopped fish, covered in tomato sauce. But the <i>cazón</i>, a smaller member of the shark family (I used to eat <i>sopa de cação</i>, a staple dish of Alentejo cooking, in Portugal) and the brightly-flavored tomato sauce are an inspired combination. <br />
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Lunch here the very next day included all of the above, plus the somewhat odd-looking <i>rellenos negros</i>. These are tortillas (surprise!), filled with shredded turkey, covered in a black sauce. The sauce is black because of a condiment <i>recado negro</i>, the black component of which is <i>chiles</i> toasted until... they are completely black. The final flavor, though, is quite mild. I found myself wishing that this particular sauce, however, was a bit less watery. Still, a very nice – soothing, even – flavor. Those are wedges of hard-boiled egg swimming alongside. <br />
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Like so many restaurants in Mexico City, this one closes by 6:30 in the evening. A pity - this would be such a great place for an festive evening meal.<br />
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<b>Coox Hanal<br />
c/Isabel la Católica 83-2º piso – Col. Centro, Delegación Cuauhtémoc<br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México <br />
(+52) (55) 5709-3613</b><br />
<a href="http://www.cooxhanal.com/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-40436016426450784182015-06-24T20:03:00.001-04:002015-06-24T20:03:09.343-04:00El HequitoThis is not exactly an unusual sight in Mexico City:<br />
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...but this is the site of the best <i>pastor</i> meat I have ever tried. So often, it’s a bit too dry, or bit too greasy (although I do love my grease). And do not ever consider the stuff sold in America as <i>pastor</i> to be actual <i>pastor</i> meat. The <i>pastor</i> at <b>El Hequito</b> is always perfect. They do <i>pastor</i> – and very little else. When it’s this good, you don’t need to.<br />
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The <i>taco pastor especial</i> is a softball-sized portion of <i>pastor</i> meat, layered with sautéed marinated onion, guacamole, and an orange-flavored house sauce, with a small slab of <i>queso manchego</i> melted over it. Sublime.<br />
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If you’re especially fond of cheese, they’ve got you covered. <i>Queso relleno “El Hequito”</i> is <i>pastor</i> meat (of course), those onions and the house sauce, wrapped in a <i>queso manchego</i> crust, and mounted on a couple of flour tortillas. Ridiculously delicious.<br />
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Incidental intelligence (to borrow <a href="http://search.ft.com/?javascriptEnabled=true&queryText=bernheimer&y=9&x=16" target="_blank">Martin Bernheimer’s</a> phrase): their name refers to the tiny floor space of the original location (less than a square meter), nickname a “<i>hequito</i>” by their customers.<br />
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<b>El Hequito<br />
c/Gante 1 - Col. Centro, Delegación Cuauhtémoc <br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México <br />
(+52) (55) 5521-8834 <br />
(several locations around town)</b><br />
<a href="http://www.elhuequito.com.mx/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-82920651767147754332015-06-23T00:02:00.001-04:002015-06-23T00:02:43.676-04:00For all your cow's foot needs...My friend <a href="http://www.elizabethblancke-biggs.com/" target="_blank">Elizabeth</a> – who is here in Mexico singing the living crap out of <i>Salome</i> – liked the duck tacos she had at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.mx/2015/06/restaurante-el-cardenal.html" target="_blank">El Cardenal</a> so much that she decided to order some duck tostadas at <b>Fonda Santa Rita</b> this evening. <br />
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What she was presented with a few minutes later slightly horrified her.<br />
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She exclaimed, “It’s all fat!” I thought to myself, “That does NOT look like duck fat... besides, duck fat is delicious!” After a bit more discussion, I finally asked her to point to what she ordered on the menu. <i>Tostadas de pata</i>. “Um, duck is <i>pato</i>. <i>Pata</i> is an animal’s foot.” At first I assumed it was pig’s feet, but I’m pretty sure now it was cow’s feet. The chief discernible seasonings were vinegar and oregano. Not really my thing, and definitely not hers!<br />
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In the meantime, I had a very tasty <i>sopa de fideos</i> (noodles in a nice chicken broth spiked with some type of mild, red chile)...<br />
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...and two eggs, rice, and <i>mole poblano</i>. <br />
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This is a very “local” sort of a joint, with offerings somewhat similar to <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.mx/2015/06/el-rincon-tapatio-taqueria-y-jugueria.html" target="_blank">El Rincón Tapatío</a>, but with a much larger space and more festive atmosphere. The food, however, is better at El Rincón Tapatío (just a couple of blocks away).<br />
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<b>Fonda Santa Rita<br />
Av. Independencia 10 - Col. Centro, Delegación Cuauhtémoc<br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México<br />
(+52) (55) 5512-4485</b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-46144573338423840912015-06-22T01:05:00.000-04:002015-06-24T20:04:04.600-04:00Restaurante El CardenalI had been told before coming to Mexico City this time (to prepare a <i>Salome</i> for some Orquesta Sinfonica Nacional concerts) that one of the great perks of staying at the Hilton Reforma was the excellent restaurant in the hotel. I thought, “Yeah, fine.” Well, after two meals there, I’m convinced that <b>Restaurante El Cardenal</b> is, in fact, one of the best purveyors of traditional Mexican food in the entire city. It has several branches throughout the city, but the Alameda (Hilton Reforma) location is known to be the best one, and apparently draws people from all over town – even if they live nearer to another outpost <br />
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The first meal was upon arrival at the hotel after a much-too-early flight while waiting for our rooms to be ready. At that moment, all I really wanted was a long nap, so the most appealing option was a hefty protein-load. And quite the delightful protein-load it was.<br />
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The <i>costilla de res</i> is, naturally, the wonderful grass-fed beef from Sonora. It’s translated on the menu is “ribeye”, but it’s cut differently than in the U.S. – crosswise, like the Argentinian cut <i>tira de asado</i>. It is accompanied by two cheese enchiladas – please expunge all images of enchiladas sold in America from you mind – covered in a palpably homemade tomato sauce. Absolutely delicious, and a relative bargain.<br />
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El Cardenal is known for careful and traditional preparation of Mexican classics, using the best recipes. The <i>moles</i> are spectacular, both their <i>tortillas de maiz</i> (corn) and <i>tortillas de harina</i> (flour) are the best I have tasted anywhere, and they have their own bakery that produces their marvelous baked goods. Everything tastes like someone’s <i>mamacita</i> could have made it, placing it firmly in the category of “my kind of restaurant”.<br />
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The menu emphasizes Oaxacan <i>moles</i> (as opposed to the better-known-in-America <i>poblano</i>), and there were several around the table – all excellent. The <i>mole negro</i> was better than any I had tasted anywhere, including Oaxaca. By the second meal here, I reached the same conclusion about their <i>coloradito</i>. Since these <i>moles</i> are, essentially, dark-colored goop, they are, hence, not terribly photogenic.<br />
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For an appetizer, I had ordered something from the <i>sopas</i> (soups) category of the menu that sounded interesting, although not a lot like a soup: sautéed <i>fideos</i> (noodles) in a light sauce of <i>chipotle</i> pepper and tomato. Well, maybe they meant a kind of broth, I thought. Nope. What arrived was a plate of lightly-sauced fried noodles. Until that moment, I had somehow never heard of the category of dishes called <i>sopas secas</i> (dry soups), which is often a casserole involving noodles. Tasty, but not mind-blowing. And definitely not what I expected!<br />
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I began today’s meal with <i>sopa de verdolagas con pollo</i> (chicken soup – a real soup this time – with purslane). Michael and <a href="http://www.cameronschutza.com/" target="_blank">Cameron</a> both ordered it the day before and had been raving about it ever since, so I had to try it. The raves were justified: a light broth with chunks of tender, MOIST white meat (no mean feat – in my experience, the second a restaurant boils chicken breast pieces they get dry) and purslane leaves, a delightful green that actually reminds me a bit of watercress. A squeeze of lime gives it just the right bit of tang.<br />
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I had immediately zeroed in the <i>barbacoa de cordero</i> as what I wanted for a main dish, but it is served only for two. Luckily, <a href="http://michaelrecchiuti.com/" target="_blank">Maestro Recchiuti</a> agreed to share it with me. He proclaimed it to be the greatest thing he’s eaten in Mexico (and he’s been to Mexico half a dozen more times than me), and I agree. It's a shoulder of lamb – which, the English menu explains, has been wrapped in <i>maguey</i> (agave) leaves and cooked by burying it in the ground with charcoal. I'm not utterly convinced that’s the way this was prepared, in the <i>centro</i> of Mexico City. It arrived wrapped in paper, without a <i>maguey</i> leaf in sight, but it mattered not. Before wrapping it up to cook, the skin of the lamb shoulder had been brushed with <i>salsa borracha</i> (“drunken sauce”), a tasty and surprisingly complex concoction made with <i>chiles pasillas</i> and beer. It’s moist, incredibly flavorful, and...just get if you ever get to Mexico City.<br />
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Warning: their <i>tortillas de harina</i> are addictive.<br />
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There were, once again, several <i>moles</i> around the table. This time, <a href="http://www.petercastaldi.com/" target="_blank">Peter</a> had ordered a <i>mole verde</i> – chicken cooked with <i>chayote</i> squash and a sauce scented with <i>hoja santa</i>. I copped a taste, and it was marvelous. Once again, better than the <i>mole verde</i> I had in Oaxaca.<br />
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This restaurant is rather expensive by local standards, but (not trying to be the ugly tourist here) for most foreigners, quite reasonable. <br />
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<b>Restaurante El Cardenal – Alameda (Hotel Hilton Reforma)<br />
Av. Juárez 70, Col. Centro, Delegación Cuauhtémoc <br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México<br />
(+52) (55) 5518-6632</b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-35404249468874725262015-06-19T03:06:00.000-04:002015-06-19T03:06:19.827-04:00"El Rincón Tapatío" - Taquería y jugueríaFood in Mexico really tastes nothing like Mexican food in the U.S. (and yes, that includes California). The basic ingredients seem to be the same. Yet, somehow the tortillas are infinitely better here, the sauce condiments might as be well be made from different plant products altogether they are so much more flavorful, and the meats used to make things like tacos, <i>huaraches</i>, <i>tortas</i>, and the like... well, <i>al pastor</i> meat is a perfect example. This is how it is made virtually everywhere in Mexico:<br />
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And so it is with <b>"El Rincón Tapatío"</b>. Notice in the foreground that there are spring onions grilling in the drippings from the <i>pastor</i> spit. When you sit down, you are immediately brought a plate of garnishes that includes those wonderful onions, some guacamole, and lime and cucumber slices. <br />
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Good as <i>pastor</i> is here, the <i>arrachera</i> meat (essentially steak) is the star. I ordered the <i>alambre</i>: <i>arrachera</i> meat grilled with peppers and onions, topped with some melted <i>queso Oaxaca</i>, accompanied by some fresh tortillas.<br />
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Utterly delicious. And I have no doubt the <i>campechano</i> meat (<i>arrachera</i> and <i>chorizo</i>) is just as good. <br />
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You have to WORK to spend more than 6 or 7 dollars here. This place looks and feels like it hasn't changed in decades. In other words, <i>my</i> kind of place.<br />
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<b>"El Rincón Tapatío" - Taquería y juguería<br />
Av. Independencia 68, local No. 4 - Col. Centro, Delegación Cuauhtémoc<br />
Ciudad de México, Distrito Federal, México <br />
(+52) (55) 5521-5179</b>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-74939491591618624412015-06-12T04:19:00.000-04:002015-06-12T04:19:11.496-04:00Grand St. Chinatown Skewer CartI'm glad to see the Manhattan's Chinatown finally has a <b>skewer cart</b> worthy of comparison to its Flushing counterparts. It doesn't seem to have an official name, but its skewers are excellent, particularly the pork and chicken sticks.<br />
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The beef stick wasn't quite as great as the pork or chicken, and if it's lamb you want, get yours in Flushing - that's what all the northern Chinese carts out there do <i>really</i> well. Of course, if it sounds appealing, go ahead and order one and try it. At these prices, you can afford it!<br />
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They're open until 2 a.m. every day.<br />
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<b>Grand St. Skewer Cart<br />
NW corner of Grand & Forsyth, New York 10002</b><br />
(D train to Grand St.)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-91517792190335285962015-06-09T05:53:00.000-04:002015-06-09T06:08:05.801-04:00Peter Pan DonutsGoddammit! I had been hearing (and reading) for years that <b>Peter Pan Donuts</b> made the best doughnuts in NYC, but since they are located in fucking Greenpoint, I refused to consider the possibility. A few nights ago, my friend <a href="http://www.elizabethblancke-biggs.com/" target="_blank">Elizabeth</a> mentioned doughnuts, and I realized I had not had a decent doughnut in, literally, years - which includes those hipster creations/abominations they sell at the <a href="http://doughnutplant.com/" target="_blank">Doughnut Plant</a> (and don't get me started about cinnamon rolls - New York is an <i>abysmal</i> town for cinnamon rolls) - so. predictably, I developed a craving. Then it happened that I was within striking distance of Greenpoint today, and I decided to swing by.<br />
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It was, admittedly, late in the day, and most items were sold out, including my usual litmus test for a doughnut joint, the classic glazed yeast doughnut. But there were a few marble (cake) crullers left, and I espied a sour cream doughnut or two - enough for a preliminary sampling.<br />
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They are fabulous.<br />
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I feel confident the glazed doughnuts are every bit as wonderful... dammit. Why does Peter Pan have to been in fucking inaccessible Greenpoint??<br />
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<b>Peter Pan Donuts<br />
727 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn 11222<br />
718-389-3676</b><br />
(G train to Nassau Ave.)<br />
<a href="http://www.peterpan-donuts.com/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-12966292214936531402015-05-06T05:34:00.000-04:002015-05-06T17:15:03.072-04:00Premium Sweets & RestaurantThe <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2015/05/dhaka-garden.html" target="_blank">other</a> place that the grocery guy pointed out to me was almost directly across the street from Mannan Supermarket, <b>Premium Sweets & Restaurant</b>. I can say with confidence right now that I'm going to be a regular here.<br />
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While I have yet to try any sweets here (desserts, with a few notable exceptions, are not generally my thing), the regular food offerings all look excellent: there is a long glass counter on the left as you enter with more than a dozen prepared rice dishes and curries, and on the right there is a shorter counter of tandoori and grilled <i>kababs</i>. And if their <i>morog polao</i> is any indication, they really are good - it is sensational.<br />
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The obvious drawback with this setup is that everything is made ahead of time, and when you order something, it gets dished up and microwaved. Rice dishes and curries like these don't suffer too much from this treatment, luckily. (Pre-cooked tandoori kababs, on the other hand...) While Premium Sweet's <i>morog polao</i> is not as refined as <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2015/05/dhaka-garden.html" target="_blank">Dhaka Garden's</a> version, it is the style that I prefer - everything baked together, so that the all flavors intermingle. There's a delightful surprise in every bite - it may be a sultana or a crisped onion shred, or a dollop of spiced yogurt, adding richness to the well-seasoned rice. Ten bucks buys a generous portion with a whole chicken leg and a hard-boiled egg.<br />
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It tastes as if someone's Bangladeshi grandmother might have made it (my highest praise: I LOVE "grandmother" food). Not quite as recommendable is the "spring roll", filled with some deliciously-seasoned minced chicken (they are halal here, after all). If one could manage to get these fresh from the fryer, I'm sure they would be great. But it had been sitting around a while, and the wrapper was rather tough and leathery. Since it only cost one dollar, it wasn't a particularly vexing misfire.<br />
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They're open VERY late, maybe even 24 hours (I forgot to ask), and have other locations in Jamaica (Queens) and Parkchester (Bronx).<br />
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<b>Premium Sweets & Restaurant <br />
37-14 73rd St., Jackson Heights 11372 <br />
718-672-5000 </b><br />
(E, F, M, R, or 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway/Roosevelt Ave.-Jackson Heights, walk a block northwest on Broadway, then right on 73rd St.)<br />
<a href="http://premiumsweetsusa.com/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-16284152108747739072015-05-02T04:34:00.000-04:002015-05-06T05:36:43.828-04:00Dhaka GardenLast weekend, I attended a concert at Alice Tully Hall in which two good friends were singing: <a href="http://www.elizabethblancke-biggs.com/" target="_blank">Elizabeth Blancke-Biggs</a> and <a href="http://www.margaretlattimore.net/" target="_blank">Margaret Lattimore</a>, both marvelous singers (go hear them if you can… better yet, come to Mexico City in late June and hang out with us as we all prepare and perform Richard Strauss's opera <i>Salome</i>). As luck would have it, my seat was next to that of an old friend and colleague, the artist manager <a href="http://www.fletcherartists.com/" target="_blank">Alex Fletcher</a>, who very gently tendered a plea for a new blog post. I admit it has been far too long, and fortunately, inspiration presented itself just a few days later.<br />
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During a late-night trip to Mannan Halal Grocery, I was chatting with the lovely Bangladeshi fellow ringing up my purchases and happened to mention how much I liked the dish <i>morog polao</i>. He brightened up, ushered me to the door, and pointed down the street to not one, but two places he thought served a good <i>morog polao</i>. He was absolutely right. This evening I brought both my camera and my friend Alex (a mathematics professor, not the artist manager) to <b>Dhaka Garden</b>, where we enjoyed some exceptionally good food.<br />
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I had heard that their <i>mughlai paratha</i> was also good, so we started with an order of that. It is easily the best <i>mughlai paratha</i> I have ever tasted – fried with lightest of hands, and filled with subtly-seasoned minced chicken (rather than the usual beef one gets in Indian restaurants) and egg. Well worth the six bucks, and easily sharable by two or three people.<br />
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Also reputed to be good was <i>kacchi biryani</i>, so order it we did. It was excellent. The menu says it is made with "premium baby goat", baby goat being a relative term. In Spain, <i>cabrito asado</i> (roast kid goat) is generally no more than 45 days old. This goat was significantly more elderly than that, but had good flavor and was actually tender, in contrast to most of the goat one gets in Indo-Paki restaurants around town. The rice was delicious with complex, fresh flavors.<br />
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With <i>biryani</i> and <i>polao</i> dishes, Dhaka Garden offers a small dish of chicken, beef or goat curry for an additional $4.95. How can one pass that up? On our waiter’s recommendation, we got beef. The gravy was rich and complex, concentrated from long simmering until almost reminiscent of Indonesian <i>rending</i>. A recommendation we’re glad we heeded.<br />
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The impetus for the visit, <i>morog polao</i>, was indeed excellent. There are several styles of <i>morog polao</i>, apparently, and while theirs is not the style I prefer (I like everything baked together), the quality was so high that it made no difference. My friend Alex, who grew up in India, was particularly impressed by this dish (in fact, he was impressed in general, saying, “This takes me back to my teen years... I haven’t had food like this since I was in India!”). He repeatedly remarked on how fresh the chicken tasted, and indeed the menu boasts "live chicken": you get one half chicken – and a hard-boiled egg – that has been simmered in a seasoned yogurt and cream sauce, with a plate of very subtly-seasoned rice, rich with sultanas, fried onion shreds, and a few saffron threads, served alongside. <br />
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This feast set us back about twenty bucks apiece. They also offer a good selection of snacks/appetizers (including some Indian-Chinese items), tandoori kababs, curries (their fish curry is reputed to be excellent), breads, and breakfast items. Open 9 a.m. - 11 p.m. daily.<br />
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(A postscript: if any Bengali speakers happen to read this and would be willing to assist in the translation of some ingredients and amounts from a cooking video in Bangla, I would be most grateful. E-mail me at the address listed near the top of the page.) <br />
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<b>Dhaka Garden<br />
72-23 37th Ave., Jackson Heights 11372<br />
718-424-8600</b><br />
(E, F, M, R, or 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway/Roosevelt Ave.-Jackson Heights, walk two blocks north on 74th St., then left on 37th Ave.)<br />
<a href="http://www.dhakagarden.com/website/" target="_blank">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-70695413069105480672014-10-30T23:30:00.000-04:002014-10-30T23:30:10.515-04:00Ferry Street Barbecue<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I almost didn't write about this place because, as I was taking the above picture, an irritating twat behind the counter said petulantly, "No photos allowed."<br />
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Surmising that the impromptu policy was not so much about culinary secrets as it was about the immigration status of most of the employees, I asked:<br />
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"Not even just the food?"<br />
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"No."<br />
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If the <s>dictum</s> "request" had been delivered with even the least iota of courtesy, I would have considered complying. But screw it. Businesses should really try to keep the cunts away from the public.<br />
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Sullen twats notwithstanding, <b>Ferry Street Barbecue</b> hawks some mighty tasty grilled chickens. Nicely seasoned, with the right amount of char, and (usually) juicy, a whole bird will set you back 11 bucks - 12 if you want rice or french fries with it.<br />
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As is probably obvious from the photo, this place is a barbecue in the sense of "meat grilled over charcoal", not "smokehouse barbecue". It's a very informal place - a counter and 6 or 7 tables - and almost everyone is there for the chicken, but they also do pork ribs, beef ribs, shrimp, and <i>bacalhau</i>.<br />
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<b>Ferry Street Barbecue<br />
89 Ferry St., Newark, NJ 07105<br />
973-344-7337</b><br />
(from Newark Penn Station, walk 5 blocks east on Ferry St. - 5 to 7 minutes) <br />
<a href="http://www.allmenus.com/nj/newark/27096-ferry-st-barbecue/menu/" target="_blank">menu (add $2 to most of the prices)</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-2288592066123139352014-10-30T22:53:00.001-04:002014-10-30T23:32:01.964-04:00PortugaliaI was picking up some Portuguese groceries in Newark this afternoon - one should never, <i>ever</i> run out of <a href="http://www.delta-cafes.pt/" target="_blank">Delta</a> coffee beans - and decided to stroll over to <b>Portugalia Bar & Restaurant</b>, a favorite of my good friend <a href="http://michaelrecchiuti.com/" target="_blank">Michael's</a>. This was not the first time I had reconnoitered the joint, but the <i>pratos do dia</i> (daily specials) had never been inspiring enough to get me to stop in... until this evening. There on the list was <i>cabidela de galinha</i>, probably my favorite Portuguese dish of all time. <br />
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Now, it may not look like much (and the lighting there did not help things one bit - my apologies for the dimness of the photo), but it is utter deliciousness. Chicken is stewed with its giblets, removed from the pot, and rice is then cooked in the same liquid. "What's that brown color, then?" you may ask. The dish is finished with chicken blood. When the chicken is killed, the blood is saved, with some vinegar mixed in to prevent coagulation. For my taste, there was just a bit too much of that vinegar in Portugalia's <i>cabidela</i>, but overall a good rendition of the dish.<br />
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Most of the patrons were eating either this, or the grilled chicken, which looked excellent (even better than <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2014/10/ferry-street-barbecue.html" target="_blank">Ferry St. Barbecue's</a>). And the accompanying fried potatoes are the first and only I've seen in the U.S. that look exactly like they do in Portugal. I do believe that's what I'll be sampling my next trip here.<br />
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<b>Portugalia<br />
280 Ferry St., Newark, NJ 07105<br />
973-465-0696</b><br />
(from Newark Penn Station, walk 13 blocks east on Ferry St. - 12 to 15 minutes)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-47585483884933355112014-10-26T06:15:00.001-04:002014-10-26T06:15:08.702-04:00Tikka GrillThe first time I wandered into <b>Tikka Grill</b>, I immediately spied a fresh chicken <i>tikka</i> kebab on the bottom shelf of the glass case, dripping with yogurt and spices, and I knew I had to have it. It was so delicious, I have been unable to make myself try much of anything else here. It's only serious rival I've found in the NY metro area is at the <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2010/01/fiza-diner.html" target="_blank">Fiza Diner</a>.<br />
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I can tell you, though, that the onion <i>kulcha</i> is excellent: a layer of tender onions enclosed in light, moist, <i>and</i> crispy bread. <br />
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On a busy corner of Astoria Blvd. near LaGuardia airport, this place is, in fact, rather easy to miss. Tucked in the ground floor of an unprepossessing low-rise building, it's almost literally a hole-in-the wall. If you go, you'll be rubbing elbows with a bunch of New York's Pakistani taxi and livery drivers, who are almost always eating curries, not kebabs. I'm sure they're great, too (the taxi drivers always know where to eat) - I just haven't got around to trying them yet.<br />
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<b>Tikka Grill<br />
24-02 82nd St., East Elmhurst 11370<br />
718-458-4848</b><br />
Q33 or Q47 bus from Jackson Heights<br />
<a href="http://www.allmenus.com/ny/queens/114597-tikka-grill/menu/" target="_blank">menu (add $1 to most of the prices)</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-31351506015128755172014-10-24T15:24:00.001-04:002014-10-24T15:24:56.904-04:00Upstairs at the New World MallOn the main floor of the New World Mall, near the Jmart cashiers, is a counter I passed many times before deciding to investigate. It generally has a motley assortment of what look like savory pastries, cold "salad" items, and stewed meat items for takeaway, and the other day, some lovely-looking pork shanks caught my eye. How could I resist?<br />
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They call this <i>jiang zhǒu zǐ</i> (酱肘子), pork shank stewed in a soy, sugar, and star anise sauce, and it is DELICIOUS. Well worth the 8 or 9 bucks it will set you back.<br />
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It's the perfect edible souvenir after a meal at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2011/10/tian-fu-new-world-mall.html" target="_blank">Tian Fu</a> or <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/05/lis-new-world-mall.html" target="_blank">Li's Noodles</a> downstairs. <br />
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<b>New World Mall<br />
Main & Roosevelt (enter on Roosevelt), Flushing 11354</b><br />
(7 train to Main St.-Flushing) Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-65805254282961982152014-10-24T13:57:00.003-04:002016-03-28T02:14:10.518-04:00Cheng Du Heaven (成都天府)Things are always changing in Flushing. Many of these changes are unwelcome ones, like the demise of <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2011/09/savor-fusion-maple-snacks.html" target="_blank">Maple Snacks</a>, the disappearance of <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/02/sichuan-dish-new-world-mall.html" target="_blank">Szechuan Dish</a>, and the recent mediocre meal at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/02/lao-dong-bei.html" target="_blank">Lao Dong Bei</a>, ascribable to a different chef (one hopes this change is not a permanent one). But lately, I noticed that <b>Cheng Du Heaven</b> (成都天府 - <i>chéng dū tiān fǔ</i>), in the basement of the <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2009/09/golden-shopping-mall-food-court.html" target="_blank">Golden Shopping Mall</a>, has been, little by little, expanding its offerings – and seating area – while keeping quality high and prices low. And that it was high time it got its own blog entry here.<br />
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I remember the days when their menu was a single column of dishes listed on the wall by the counter. Now the menu boasts more than 50 dishes, with an additional 15 or 20 meal-sized soups, of both the <i>má là tāng</i> (麻辣湯 – the typical Sichuan spicy/tingly stews) and noodle soup varieties. <br />
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The "Wonton w/Chilli Oil Sauce" (紅油抄手 - <i>hóng yóu chāo shǒu</i>) appetizer is superb: practically perfect wontons in a beautifully balanced spicy sesame sauce.<br />
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While their Dan Dan Noodle (擔擔 面 – <i>dàn dàn miàn</i>) does not erase nostalgia for <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2011/09/savor-fusion-maple-snacks.html" target="_blank">Sister Zhu's</a>, it is one of the very best around. Another well-balanced spicy sauce lurks below those tender noodles. And the dusting of crispy-yet-tender minced pork is the perfect complement.<br />
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Their version of Ma La Beef Tendon (麻辣牛筋 – <i>má là niú jīn</i>) is as good as any around Flushing, too.<br />
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The Ma Po Tofu (麻婆豆腐 – <i>má pó dòu fǔ</i>) here is the best I've tasted in years. The tofu is soft, but not too soft, and the sauce is the perfect balance of spicy and salty, with just the right pungent accent from fermented black beans.<br />
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The only near-miss so far has been "Chicken with Family Sauce" (mmm... family sauce… my favorite!). A better translation of 家常熱窩鶏 (<i>jiā cháng rè wō jī</i>) would be “chicken home style”, and it was nice, but not all that interesting. Small bone-in chunks of chicken are lightly simmered in a mildly spicy sauce with two or three kinds of peppers and scallion. <br />
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Interestingly, the leftover portion when heated up at home the next day was better than on the first day. The flavors were both better melded together and more pronounced. My friend <a href="https://twitter.com/AudreyLoViolin" target="_blank">Audrey</a> tells me that the characters 熱窩 mean, essentially, "warm, but not too hot", making the preparation true to its name. I would just prefer the dish to have finished cooking, I suppose!<br />
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On the other hand, their dry-sautéed chicken (干煸鶏 - <i>gān biān jī</i>) is the tastiest version of this dish I have ever tasted, with lots of intense spicy and salty flavor. It's listed on the wall, rather amusingly, as "chicken with dire chillis".<br />
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Their Spicy Twice Cooked Pork (回锅肉 – <i>huí guō ròu</i>) is stellar – as good as any I've tried, with a real homemade quality to it. <br />
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Don't miss the array of appetizer dishes and snacks in the glass counter-case. The Ma La chicken wings are marvelous to keep around the house to snack on. And their Ma La Sausage (麻辣香 腸 – <i>má là xiāng cháng</i>) really is almost as good as Sister Zhu's from <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2011/09/savor-fusion-maple-snacks.html" target="_blank">Maple Snacks</a>:<br />
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And it's difficult to stop eating slices of their house-cured pork belly (成都臘肉 - <i>chéng dū là ròu</i>):<br />
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Cheng Du Heaven serves, for my money, the best Sichuan food in Flushing at the moment (Little Pepper is in College Point). Because of the very spartan dining environs, one might wish that some of the dishes were a buck or two cheaper, but it's still a great value.<br />
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<b>Cheng Du Heaven (成都天府)<br />
Golden Shopping Mall basement food court<br />
41-28 Main St., Flushing 11355</b><br />
(7 train to Flushing-Main St., then 3 blocks south on Main)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-5949985375849227442014-05-22T02:51:00.001-04:002014-05-22T02:51:50.061-04:00Tawa TandoorThe Indian buffet is, at this point, pretty much a classic restaurant genre. Yet finding a decent one in NYC can be rather tricky. Sure, there's the Jackson Diner for Sunday brunch, but their kitchen has seen better days (and one actually has to get up in time to get out there for brunch...). Indian Taj, a bit further up the block is okay in a pinch but just isn't all that good. Luckily, a newcomer has arrived to take up the slack: <b>Tawa Tandoor</b>.<br />
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Most of the cooking here is Indian food's first cousin, Pakistani, as are the owners. The charming matriarch of the establishment told me that they have cooks there from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, so there are all sorts of influences floating around here. But what makes this place stand out is the quality of its offerings. Everything is prepared with care and attention, with good ingredients, producing flavors are almost always fresh and vibrant - a rare thing for a buffet at this price point. And when that price point is $11.95 a head at dinner, it's practically a steal.<br />
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The restaurant is halal (no pork - and I didn't even miss it!), with a good selection of both vegetarian and meat options on the buffet. The spread is pretty much the same every day, with an item or two traded out occasionally. My perhaps-a-bit-too-hurriedly-taken photos don't do the food justice, but it will give you an idea.<br />
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From left to right: <i>hakka</i> vegetable noodles, vegetable fried rice, vegetable <i>kofta</i> (delicious "meatballs" made of vegetables), white basmati rice, and <i>palak paneer</i> (spinach and Indian farmer cheese, also known by the less specific, but more common, name <i>saag paneer</i>). The <i>hakka</i> noodles are fun and tasty, the vegetable <i>kofta</i> unexpectedly delicious (at least it was unexpected by me, confirmed carnivore that I am), and the <i>palak paneer</i> has a bit more bite (in a good way) than most versions you'll find.<br />
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Continuing the vegetarian offerings:<br />
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From left to right: <i>aloo gobi</i> (curried cauliflower and potatoes), <i>poori</i> bread, <i>chana masala</i> (curried chickpeas), and vegetable <i>pakora</i> and <i>samosa</i>. Most of these I have not, in fact tried (there is almost nothing you can do to cauliflower to make it appealing to me, and I prefer to get my starch overloads in ways other than <i>pakora</i> and <i>samosa</i>). But <i>chana masala</i> is an especially dark, rich version of this dish, and puffy, crispy <i>poori</i> bread is always fun - try to catch them just as they're bringing fresh ones from the kitchen.<br />
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And, finally, the meat:<br />
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From left to right: <i>tandoori</i> chicken, chicken <i>jalfrezi</i>, chicken <i>tikka masala</i>, goat curry, and chicken <i>biryani</i>. Once again, if you can catch the <i>tandoori</i> chicken on its way out from the kitchen, you'll be rewarded with some very moist, flavorful pieces of chicken. There are usually chicken <i>kofta</i> (lovely chicken meatballs in a complex gravy just spicy enough to be interesting) in the chicken <i>jalfrezi</i> spot, but the <i>jalfrezi</i> was in no way a disappointing substitute - chunks of chicken and vegetables simmered in a slightly spicy, yet soothing, curry sauce. The favorite of Americans, chicken <i>tikka masala</i>, has more kick to it - and firmer chunks of chicken - than almost any version I've tried, raising it far above the cloying glop one usually gets. I was told the goat curry is quite popular, and indeed it is some of the best goat I have had in this country. <br />
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There are also some salad and dessert items to round out the selection - rice pudding is on offer almost every day - and a fresh <i>naan</i> bread is brought to you almost as soon as you sit down.<br />
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<b>Tawa Tandoor<br />
37-56 74th St., Jackson Heights 11372<br />
718-478-2730</b><br />
(E, F, M, R, or 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway/Roosevelt Ave.-Jackson Heights, then a short block north on 74th St.)<br />
<a href="http://tawatandoor74.dealonaire.com/">website</a>Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-66559385052988106522013-12-04T01:24:00.000-05:002014-05-22T02:54:20.935-04:00SodeshIn the Norwood neighborhood of the Bronx, there is a relatively new restaurant called <b>Sodesh</b> that says it serves Bangladeshi, Indian and Pakistani food. Whatever style the food is that they serve, it's absolutely delicious. I'll go with Bangladeshi, since their versions of familiar dishes are stylistically unique in my experience. <br />
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Perhaps the term "restaurant" is overstating things just a tad... it was clearly one of those Chinese take-out counters that populate the less-gentrified neighborhoods of New York until quite recently, and has about 5 tables. No matter - the food is stellar.<br />
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We started with an assortment of kababs as appetizers:<br />
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There is the usual tandoori chicken, chicken <i>tikka</i>, and a <i>seekh</i>-style minced chicken kabab. But the winner was the one at the bottom of the frame, which I think is called chicken <i>tirka</i> (didn't get the name – but one can always just point!). Delicately flavored and moist – it was fabulous.<br />
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They serve the most subtly delicious <i>chapli</i> kabab I have ever tried (minced chicken with egg, diced tomato, green pepper, and spices): <br />
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Preceding the arrival of the entrées was a plate of rice for each person. I don’t know what is in it, but it is the most beautifully perfumed rice I think I have ever been served anywhere. It complemented particularly well the popular winner of the evening, butter chicken:<br />
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Every time I have ordered butter chicken elsewhere, what generally comes out is some sort of variation of chicken <i>tikka masala</i>. Not here. The menu says "boneless chicken, butter, ginger, tomato purée, yogurt, cream, lemon juice & all spices." The tomato purée was surprising to read, because I could not identify any tomato flavor at all. This is not a bad thing. All those ingredients are in perfect balance with one another to create a creamy chicken dish that is both light and rich at the same time. It's simply stupendous, and the caramelized onions that garnish almost all the dishes here are a delightful addition.<br />
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A seemingly close cousin of the butter chicken, chicken <i>kurma</i>, is, in the end, quite different in overall effect. The sauce is creamy in texture, but its base is <i>ghee</i>, coconut milk, and puréed nuts, which throws the aromatic qualities of the ginger and spices into sharper relief. Depending on ones tastes, this dish is as good or better than the butter chicken. <br />
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(And there's that beautiful rice in the background.)<br />
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On the menu is a northern take on the south Indian (Goan, actually) dish, <i>vindaloo</i>. I’d never seen beef <i>vindaloo</i> on offer before, so I had to order it (when, oh when is the original PORK <i>vindaloo</i> going to come to NYC?). It was spicy, but not overly so, and pleasantly vinegary, with the <i>de rigueur</i> potatoes. A nice, warming dish.<br />
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Goat <i>biryani</i> was aromatic and everything it should be, and the chunks of goat were actually tender<br />
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Their <i>saag paneer</i> is the tastiest, most interesting version of this dish I've ever tried. The spinach was perfectly cooked, and the texture of the homemade cheese was just right – it so often gets dry and grainy – and the fresh flavor, even better. The menu doesn’t mention tomato in this dish, and it's the one dish where I thought I could taste it. In any event, the flavor had a lot of dimensions to it – not something I normally associate with <i>saag paneer</i>! <br />
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Marvelously inexpensive - the only dishes over ten dollars are the shrimp dishes (and the goat <i>biryani</i>).<br />
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<b>Sodesh<br />
3111 Bainbridge Ave., Bronx 10467<br />
718-231-5370</b><br />
(D train to 205th St., follow the signs for Bainbridge Ave., then half a block down the hill)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-23059353131357811432013-10-07T04:42:00.001-04:002013-10-07T04:50:59.839-04:00Mei Li Wah (羙麗華)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjA4jwVeS0-jAsZQBVV_kP5D_NlY62xMScia5-JfscaDgMPsvjt6d0Zu8lDXfASVQ67STDpR2WWM9-zlK3UsJtu8SXathV9BpICjcObsoF_2PYEOmFsw3qjSPqvrMRJ7WgYAF-t6sEww/s1600/Mei+Li+Wah.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjA4jwVeS0-jAsZQBVV_kP5D_NlY62xMScia5-JfscaDgMPsvjt6d0Zu8lDXfASVQ67STDpR2WWM9-zlK3UsJtu8SXathV9BpICjcObsoF_2PYEOmFsw3qjSPqvrMRJ7WgYAF-t6sEww/s320/Mei+Li+Wah.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Roast pork buns are truly beautiful things, and my favorite baked ones (焗叉燒包 - <i>jú chā shāo bāo</i>) in the city are available all day until 10:30 p.m. at <b>Mei Li Wah (羙麗華茶餐廳)</b>.<br />
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The filling is rich with chunks of pork <i>and</i> pork fat, and - most importantly - not too sweet. The yeasty dough always makes me happy. Their product is utterly consistent, making it one of the few things in life I can really count on. And they're under a buck apiece.<br />
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Another great thing here is the large steamed bun containing chicken, pork and salted egg (三星大包 - <i>sān xīng dà bāo</i>). A small meal for $1.60. Although I haven't tried any of the others, I'm told that all of the dim-sum-like offerings here - and there are quite a few - are very good. The "crispy egg shatters" (鬆化蛋散 - <i>sōng huà dàn sǎn</i>) - essentially a twist of fried wonton-wrapper-like dough drizzled with honey - makes a nice post-prandial treat after a Chinatown feast.<br />
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And because I'm fascinated by these things, the normal character for the <i>měi</i> of their name (beautiful) is 美 (and all of the on-line listings for this place have it as 美麗華). But the sign and menu definitely have the more archaic "羙".<br />
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<b>Mei Li Wah (羙麗華茶餐廳)<br />
64 Bayard St., New York 10013<br />
212-966-7866</b><br />
(between Mott & Elizabeth)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5954163586543515237.post-87160284017193527192013-10-07T03:42:00.000-04:002013-10-07T03:56:05.257-04:00Shanghai Café (上海喬家柵)I had been curious to try <b>Shanghai Café</b> (上海喬家柵 - <i>shàng hǎi qiáo jiā shān</i>), in Manhattan's Chinatown, for quite some time now because of one dish I had read about on Lau's excellent <a href="https://www.lauhound.com/2010/10/shanghai-cafe-surprisingly-good-shanghainese-meal-with-the-off-the-menu-dishes/">blog</a>. <br />
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I'm delighted to able to say the dish did not disappoint. "Stewed Pork and Tofu Skin in Brown Sauce" (百葉結烤肉 - <i>bǎi yè jiē kǎo ròu</i>) is, essentially knots of tofu skin added to braised pork belly. It's braised <i>hóng shāo</i> (紅燒) style - that is, in soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, ginger, and star anise. The result is rich and complex, and the tofu skin knots are the perfect foil for the tender chunks of delightfully fatty pork. I've had similar dishes in a couple of other Shanghai-style joints, and Shanghai Café's is by far the best. It's worth the trip here just for this dish, I think. (Photos courtesy of <a href="https://twitter.com/JoseSPiano">Jose</a> - his turned out WAY better than mine did. Terrible lighting.)<br />
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The <i>xiǎo lóng bāo</i> (小龍包 - soup dumplings) here, as Lau rightly observes, are not particularly distinguished. If you must have them, do yourself a favor and just go out to Flushing and get some at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/07/kung-fu-xiao-long-bao.html">Kung Fu Xiao Long Bao</a>. <br />
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The "Braised Whole Fish with Ginger and Scallion" (蔥烤鰂魚 - <i>cōng kǎo zéi yú</i>), however, <i>is</i> distinguished. A whole tilapia is braised in a relatively rich - for fish - brown sauce (in fact, it's a lighter first cousin to the <i>hóng shāo</i> sauce of the previously mentioned pork dish) with a dozen or so whole scallions. One of the best new (to me) fish dishes I've had in quite a while.<br />
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Those "stripes" in the picture are whole scallions. I find the use of <i>kǎo</i> (烤) a bit puzzling here. Normally, it has the sense of "baked" or "barbecued". But as used in the names of both this and the pork dish, it seems to pretty clearly mean "braised". I have no idea - perhaps it's just Shanghai usage.<br />
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"Pork with Mustard Green and Salted Egg Soup" (鹹蛋芥菜肉片湯 - <i>xián dàn jiè cài ròu piàn tāng</i>) is a soup of pretty much what it says: sliced pork, mustard greens and egg, although we were expecting the egg to be salted preserved egg (it's just egg drop - perhaps the 鹹 in the name of the dish is merited simply because they salt the egg before pouring it into the soup). No matter - the flavors are clear and delicious. (This photo was taken by <a href="https://twitter.com/SethimusTwitius">Seth</a>, who spotted this soup on the menu.)<br />
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"Seafood Pan Fried Noodles" (海鮮兩面黄 - <i>hǎi xiān liǎng miàn huáng</i>) is a solid take on this dish: a sauce of shrimp, scallop, fake crab, snow peas - and quite a bit of broccoli - poured over crispy thin egg noodles. Quite tasty. <br />
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The takeout menu calls the restaurant "Shanghai Café Déluxé" (<i>sic</i>), having little to do with its Chinese name 喬家柵 (<i>qiáo jiā shān</i>), which seems to be a well-known restaurant name in Shanghai. This is the best Shanghainese restaurant in Manhattan, and, since their menu is much larger and more varied than that of <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2013/07/kung-fu-xiao-long-bao.html">Kung Fu Xiao Long Bao</a>, if you order carefully, perhaps the best in the city. Now if they would only add a pig intestine dish like the fabulous one up at <a href="http://ericeatsout.blogspot.com/2012/01/ala-shanghai.html">Ala Shanghai</a> near Albany.<br />
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<b>Shanghai Café (上海喬家柵)<br />
100 Mott St., New York 10013<br />
212-966-3988</b><br />
(just north of Canal St.)Mahlzeit!http://www.blogger.com/profile/14847390011188301277noreply@blogger.com0